Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
