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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.